Victorian Hair

Pomatum Recipes
Pomatum for the Hair may be made as follows:-- Into a perfectly clean and well-tinned stew-pan, put one pint of very fresh oil of sweet almonds; set it over a slow fire, and gradually melt it in one ounce and a half of spermaceti, and two ounces of very fresh hog's lard. The heat must be barely sufficient to melt these substances, for a high temperature would make the oil rancid in a few days. The whole being melted, pour it into a china or earthenware basin; and when almost cold, stir into it whatever essential oils will communicate the perfume you prefer. Pot it off, and, when cold, tie paper over each pot. Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892); Nov 1857; VOL.XXXII., No. 5.; APS Online, pg. 365
Pomatum for the Hair. Take one ounce of spermaceti, one ounce of castor oil, four ounces of olive oil, and two pennyworth of bergamot, and melt them together in a pot, placed in boiling water. stirring the mixture all the time; when thoroughly mixed, pour the mixture into pots while hot.-- "Housewife's Department" Flag of Our Union; Jan 2, 1858; 13, 1; APS Online, pg. 7
Elder Flower Pomatum:--Take of elder flower water, four ounces; fine mutton suet, two ounces; best lard, two ounces; melt the suet and lard together, with as little heat as possible, then add the elder oil, and beat up the mixture with a fork (to make it light) till nearly cold. If agreeable, any other perfume may be added before the pomatum is set.-- "The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); Jul 1855; 51, APS Online, pg. 79
A Cheap Pomatum--Take a quarter of a pound of fresh lard, and about half an ounce of white wax, and twopenny-worth of rose hair oil, mix well together; this makes a good, cheap pomatum, and will not injure the hair. Instead of rose hair oil you may use a small quantity of any liquid scent you please.-- Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892) ; Oct 1858; VOL. XXXIV., No. 4.; APS Online, pg. 293
A Good Pomade for General Use One pound of beef suet to two pounds of lard. Care must be taken to procure them as fresh as possible. And, after being separated from all skin and fibre, they must be pounded in a mortar, and then placed in a covered pan of earthenware or metal. This must stand in a vessel of hot water until the fat slowly becomes liquid. It will be found that all the refuse will then be separated, and will sink to the bottom of the pan. The fat in its liquid state is then passed through a filter (clean flannel is the best). The perfume must now be added, and may be either essence of lemon, bergamot, or any other scent preferred; about three drachms will suffice for the quantity of fat warmed. After this, with a wooden spoon, or knife, the mixture should be continually stirred or beaten until it be thoroughly cool. Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine Oct. 1864, pg. 351
A Capital Pomade.-- Dissolve thoroughly over a slow fire two ounces of white wax and half an ounce of palm oil, with a flask of the best olive oil. Stir it till nearly cold; then add once ounce of castor oil and about three pennyworth of bergamot or any other perfume you please.-- Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892) ; Oct 1858; VOL. XXXIV., No. 4.; APS Online, pg. 293
Bandoline for the Hair: Crush the pips of the ripe quince between two pieces of paper; then put them into a tumbler of cold water to stand all night, when the water will have become glutinous and fit for use; drop into it a small quantity of spirits of wine, and a few drops of essence of rose, jasmine, or any ether perfume. Or: Take half an ounce dried quince pips, pour on them one pint of boiling water, and strain when cold. Should it not be sufficiently glutinous, boil it again, and pour over the pips a second time. Scent with rose, bergamot, or any other scent. Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine. November 1863. p. 477
Hair Pomatum.-- To a flask of the finest Lucca oil add an ounce and a half of spermaceti, half an ounce of white wax, and scent of any kind. Cut up the wax and spermaceti, and put it in the oven to melt with a little of the oil. When well mixed, pour in the remainder of the oil, and stir until cold: add the scent when the mixture is cool. If the hair is inclining to gray, add, by drops, a teaspoonful of balsam of Peru, taking care to stir it well in.-- "The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882) ; May 1863; 66, APS Online, pg. 486.
To Make Soft Pomatum.-- Beat half a pound of unsalted fresh lard in common water; then soak and beat it in two rose-waters, drain it, and beat it with two spoonfuls of brandy; let it drain from this; add to it some essence of lemon, and keep it in small pots.- Petersons 1861, p. 314
Receipt for Pomatum: One pint of olive oil, two ounces of white wax, one drachm of tincture of cantharides; oil of roses, two drops (or any other scent if preferred.) Put the oil in a jug, on a hob, and dissolve the wax in it, and then mix in the other ingredients; to be poured into the pots while hot. Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine October 1864, pg. 351
Excellent Pomade at Moderate Cost: The following receipt will furnish an excellent pomade at a moderate cost: Two ounces of castor-oil, three ounces of best olive-oil, one ounce of spermaceti. Dissolve the spermaceti in an earthen jar or pipkin over a slow fire; then add the castor and olive oils. When nearly cold, stir in a small quantity of bergamot, with a few drops of oil of cloves, cinnamon, and almond mixed.- Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine October 1864, pg. 351
Receipt for Pomatum: Six ounces of castor-oil, six ounces of olive-oil, four ounces of spermaceti, two drachms of oil of lavender, ten drops of oil of cinnamon, two drachms of essence of bergamot, two drachms of essence of lemon. melt the oils and sperm together, gradually warming them on the stove and keep stirring; when nearly cold add the scent.- Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine October 1864, pg. 351
To Make Soft Pomatum.-- Soak half a pound of clear beef-marrow and one pound of unsalted fresh lard in water two or three days, changing and beating it every day. Put it into a sieve, and, when dry, into a jar, and the jar into a saucepan of water. When melted, pour it into a basin and heat it with two spoonfuls of brandy; drain off the brandy, and then add essence of lemon, bergamot, or any other scent that is liked.--"The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); oct 1863; 67, APS Online, pg. 374
Hard Pomatum.-- Prepare equal quantities of beef-marrow and mutton suet as before, using the brandy to preserve it, and adding the scent; then pour it into moulds, or if you have none, into phials of the size you choose the rolls to be. When cold, break the bottles, clear away the glass carefully, and put paper around the rolls.--"The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); oct 1863; 67, APS Online, pg. 374
Hard Pomatum.-- Take equal quantities of marrow, melted and strained, lard, and castor oil; warm all together; add any scent you please; stir until cold, and put into pots.-- "The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); oct 1863; 67, APS Online, pg. 374
Lemon Pomatum.-- Best lard, two pounds; suet, half a pound; dissolve with a gentle heat, and mix them well together. Then add four ounces of orange-flower water, and four ounces of rose-water, and mix them well together before adding, or they will separate. Having done this, add a quarter of an ounce of essence of lemon; half a drachm of musk, and half a drachm of oil of thyme. Petersons 1860 p. 163
Crystalline Pomade.-Mix four ounces of oil of almonds, four ounces of best olive oil, one ounce of spermaceti, two ounces of castor oil. Melt these in a covered jar by the side of the fire; then stir in seventy drops of the following perfume, which should have been previously kept in a stopped phial. Then pour it into your cream jars, cover, and let it stand till cold. A cheaper perfume than the following, such as bergamot or almond flavor, which some people like, may well be used; but the subjoined is the best: Mix together, and shake well in a stopped phial, eight drops of oil of cloves, twenty-five drops of English oil of lavender, one drachm each of essence of bergamot and essence of lemon, and ten drops each of the oil of cassia and otto of roses. Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine Sept. 1863 Pg. 274
Circassian Cream (1859)
Marrow Pomatum (1859)
Jessamine Pomatum.-- Melt a pound of fresh, sweet lard; skim it, and when cold, wash it three times with spring water. Free it from water, and spread it an inch thick on a plate; strew it thickly with jessamine flowers.-- "Recipes for the Toilet." Graham's American Monthly Magazine of Literature, Art, and Fashion (1844-1858); Oct 1856, VOL.XLIX., No. 4., APS Online, pg 364.
Pomade of Cucumber (1860)
Pomade Divine (1863)
To Color Pomatum.-- Yellow, by palm oil or annatto; red, by alkanet root; and green by guaiacum, or the green leaves of parsley. -Peterson's 1860 p. 163
A Cheap Pomatum.-- Half an ounce of white wax; half an ounce of spermaceti; eight ounces of olive oil. Dissolve in a basin set in hot water before the fire; add some scent just before pouring into bottles. Or- Get a quarter of a pound of hog's lard, and three quarters of a tumbler of olive oil, about a tablespoon of castor oil, a dessert spoonful of eau-de-cologne, and a pennyworth of gum; the hog's lard and the oil should be warmed a little, till the hog's lard melt [sic], then the rest should be put in. It should be allowed to cool before use. Or- Half a pint of best olive oil, half an ounce of best yellow beeswax, half an ounce of spermaceti, and about two pennyworth of any pleasant perfume. Cut the wax and sperm up small, melt in the oil, and add the scent. -"Receipts for the Toilet" Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892); Jan 1861; VOL. XXXIX., No. 1, pg. 94
Hair Oil Recipes
Oil of Roses for the Hair.-- Olive oil, one quart; attar of roses, one drachm; oil of rosemary, one drachm. Mix. It may be colored by steeping a little alkanet root in the oil (with heat) before scenting it. It strengthens and beautifies the hair. Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine. November 1863. p. 477
Macassar Oil.-- It is said to be compounded of the following ingredients:-- To three quarts of common oil, add half a pint of spirits of wine, three ounces of cinnamon powder, and two ounces of bergamot; heat the whole in a large pipkin. On removing from the fire, add three or four small pieces of alkanet root, and keep the vessel closely covered for several hours. When cool, it may be filtered through a funnel lined with filtering paper. Whether oils are used or not, the hair ought, night and morning, to be carefully and elaborately brushed. This is one of the best preservatives of its beauty.- Peterson's 1861
Elder Flower Oil for the Hair.-- Take of the best almond or olive oil, one pound; elder flowers (free from stalk), two ounces; place the flowers in the oil in a jar or wide-mouthed bottle; let them remain forty-eight hours; then strain. The oil must now stand in a quiet and cool place for at least a month, in order to clear itself. The bright part being poured off, is fit for use. If considered too strong, plain oil may be added.--"The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); Jul 1855; 51, APS Online, pg. 79
Oil for the Hair.-- Oil of ben, one pint; civet, three grains; Italian oil of jasmin, three fluid ounces; attar of roses, three minims. Mix, and it is ready for use.-- Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892); Nov 1857; VOL.XXXII., No. 5.; APS Online, pg. 365
An Excellent Hair Oil.-- Boil together half a pint of port wine, one pint and a half of sweet oil, and half a pound of green southernwood. Strain the mixture though a linen rag several times, adding, at the last operation, two ounces of bear's grease. If fresh southernwood is added each time it passes through the linen, the composition will be improved. -Peterson's 1861
Hair Oils, &c..-- When used moderately, oils, ointments, &c, tend to strengthen the hair, especially when it is naturally dry. When used in excess, however, they clog the pores, prevent the escape of natural secretions, and cause the hair to wither and fall off. The varieties of "oils", "greases," "ointments" rivaling each other in their high-sounding pretensions, which are daily imposed upon the public credulity, are interminable. We add one or two of the most simple. For Thickening the Hair.-- To one ounce of Palma Christi oil, add a sufficient quantity of bergamot or lavender to scent it. Apply it to the parts where it is most needed, brushing it well into the hair. An Ointment for the Hair.-- Mix two ounces of bear's grease, half an ounce of honey, one drachm of laudanum, three drachms of the powder of southernwood, three drachms of the balsam of Peru, one and a half drachms of the ashes of the roots of bulrushes, and a small quantity of the oil of sweet almonds. -Peterson's 1861, p. 488
General Hair Care
Cleansing the Hair.-- Nothing but good can be derived from a due attention to cleaning the hair. Once a week is perhaps desirable, but this will depend upon the individual; persons with light, thin, and dry hair will require it more seldom than those with thick, greasy hair, or who perspire very freely. Nothing is better than soap and water. The soap should be mild, and well and plentifully rubbed in the hair.-- "Receipts for the Toilet" Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892); Jan 1861; VOL. XXXIX., No. 1, pg. 94
To Promote the growth of the Hair.-- Mix equal parts of olive oil and spirits of rosemary, add a few drops of oil of nutmeg. If the hair be rubbed every night with this, and the proportion be very gradually increased, it will answer every purpose of facilitating the growth of the hair. -Peterson's 1861
To Restore the Hair.--When ill-health has removed it, care should be taken to keep the roots moist and free from scurf. One of the simplest is olive oil, slightly scented, or pomatum, made of beef or mutton suet and fresh lard, with the marrow from the bones; the latter is very efficacious. Onions rubbed on the scalp will stimulate the growth of the hair, but this is an unpleasant application. Many of the scented oils advertised give a fine gloss to the hair, but should be used with caution. Oil of walnut is much reccomended for restoring the hair. "Recipes for the Toilet." Graham's American Monthly Magazine of Literature, Art, and Fashion (1844-1858); Oct 1856, VOL.XLIX., No. 4., APS Online, pg 364.
To Restore Hair-- Hair, when removed by illness or old age, has been restored by the following simple means; though they are not likely to prove efficacious in all cases. Rub the bald places frequently with an onion.-"The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); Jul 1855; 51, APS Online, pg. 79
Hair Wash.--One drachm of tincture of lytta, half an ounce of spirits of wine, half an ounce of spirits of rosemary. Put these into a bottle, and add half a pint of cold water. - Peterson's 1860, p. 163
Hair Wash.-- An excellent and perfectly harmless hair wash may be made as follows:-- take two or three pennyworth of rosemary, strip the leaves from the stalks, and put them into a jar, with nearly half a pint of cold water. Place the jar near the fire, and let the contents simmer gently for an hour or two without setting or burning. When the water is somewhat reduced, the infusion will be sufficiently string. Then add half a pint of rum, and simmer the whole for a while longer. When cold, strain the liquid from the leaves, and keep it in a bottle to be ready for use. Apply it to the roots of the hair with a small sponge, or a piece of flannel. Egg wash for the hair is made by beating up the yoke of a raw egg and adding it to the rosemary infusion made as above. -Peterson's 1860, p. 321
Cleaning Hair Brushes.-- It is said that soda dissolved in cold water is better than soap and hot water. The latter very soon softens the hairs, and the rubbing completes their destruction. Soda having an affinity for grease, cleans the brush with very little friction. -Peterson's 1861
To Clean Head and Clothes-Brushes.-- Put a tablespoonful of Pearlash into a pint of boiling water. Having fastened a bit of sponge to the end of a stick, dip it into the solution, and wash the brush with it. Next pour over it some clean, hot water, and put it aside for a short time; then drain and wipe it with a cloth, and dry it before the fire. p. 314
Hair Brushes.-- To clean hair-brushes, put a spoon-ful of pearlash into a pint of boiling water, then fasten a bit of sponge to the end of a stick, dip it into the solution, and wash the brush. Next pour some hot water over it, and dry before the fire.-- "The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); Jul 1855; 51, APS Online, pg. 79
To Prevent the Hair Falling Off.--Put one pound of unadulterated honey into a still, with three handfuls of the tendrils of grape-vine, and the same quantity of rosemary tops. Distill as cool and slowly as possible. The liquor may be allowed to drop till it tastes sour.--"Recipes for the Toilet." Graham's American Monthly Magazine of Literature, Art, and Fashion (1844-1858); Oct 1856, VOL.XLIX., No. 4., APS Online, pg 364.
Receipt for Preventing the Hair Falling Off.-- Onions must be rubbed frequently on the part. The stimulating powers of this vegetable are of essential service in restoring the tone of the skin, and assisting the capillary vessels in sending forth new hair; but it is not infallible. Should it succeed, however, the growth of these new hairs may be assisted by the oil of myrtle-berries, the repute of which, perhaps, is greater than its real efficiency. These applications are cheap and harmless, even where they do no good; a character cannot be said of the numerous quack remedies that meet the eye in every direction. --"Receipts for the Toilet" Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892); Jan 1861; VOL. XXXIX., No. 1, pg. 94
For Removing Scurf From the Head :-- Take two ounces of castor oil, six ounces of olive oil, and an ounce and a half of tincture of cantharides; mix it well, and add two drachms of essence of bergamot, to render it agreeable. Or-- Mix equal quantities of rum and oil, and use it like oil alone.- Peterson's 1860 p. 488
A Receipt for Scurf in the Head that will not Injure the Color of the Hair.-- The following is a most efficacious, safe, and agreeable receipt. I have tried it, and found it answer exceedingly well. Into a pint of water drop a lump of quicklime, the size of a walnut; let it stand all night; then pour the water off, clear off sediment, or deposit, add a quarter of a pint of the best vinegar, and wash the head, thoroughly wetting the roots of the hair.
Pomatum-- The following is the recipe of Dupuytren, the celebrated French physician, to prepare a pomatum to prevent baldness, and promote the growth of human hair. it is muc esteemed by the medical faculty, one of whom furnished it for the columns of the Southern Planter, the editor of which, since its receipt, has applied it with great success, to an inveterate ?etter on the head of a little boy in his own family: Take of Beef Marrow (well tried) 8 oz. Sugar of lead (well pulverized) 1 drachm Old Brandy 1 oz. Oil of Cloves 15 drops Tincture of Cantharides, (Spanish flies) 15 scrup. Mix intimately, and rub the bald part, or that likely to become so, every evening.- The American Farmer, and Spirit of the Agricultural Journals of the Day, 1839(Sep 29, 1841); 3,19; APS Online; pg. 149
Pomatum to Prevent Hair From Falling Off.-- Take the marrow out of two beef bones, put it into cold water, and let it remain until it is quite clean and white. Before this is effected the water must be changed several times. Dissolve and strain the marrow; then add four ounces of the best castor oil. Beat both well together until cold, then add, before the pomatum becomes firm, half an ounce of strong scent. This pomatum should be well rubbed into the skin of the head every night, and the hair should be well brushed both night and morning.--"The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); May 1863; 66, APS Online, pg. 486.
Removing Superfluous Hair. The only method of effectually removing superfluous hair, is by means of small forceps made for the purpose. Only five or six should be removed at once, in the course of twenty-four hours, and those not close together. The parts should afterwards be washed in spirits of wine.--"Recipes for the Toilet." Graham's American Monthly Magazine of Literature, Art, and Fashion (1844-1858); Oct 1856, VOL.XLIX., No. 4., APS Online, pg 364.
Glossary and Instructions for Unusual Ingredients in 19th c. hair care receipts
Ingredients
civet : 2. A yellowish or brownish unctuous substance, having a strong musky smell, obtained from sacs or glands in the anal pouch of several animals of the Civet genus, especially of the African Civet-cat. It is used in perfumery. "civet, n.1"The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989. OED Online . Oxford University Press. 29 Aug 2007, .
isinglass 1. A firm whitish semitransparent substance (being a comparatively pure form of gelatin) obtained from the sounds or air-bladders of some fresh-water fishes, esp. the sturgeon; used in cookery for making jellies, etc., also for clarifying liquors, in the manufacture of glue, and for other purposes. Also extended to similar substances made from hides, hoofs, etc. "isinglass, n.1"The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989. OED Online . Oxford University Press. 29 Aug 2007, .
Oil of Ben : oil obtained from the ben-nut. "oil of ben, n.3"The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989. OED Online . Oxford University Press. 29 Aug 2007, .
Perfumed Oils.--These are prepared by soaking cotton in fine olive oil, and spreading it in layers, over which such flowers as violets, jessamine, or roses, should be lightly strewn. The oil will thus imbibe the scent of the flowers, and should be pressed from the cotton, and, if necessary, filtered through flannel. Most of the French scented oils are made by this process. -- "Recipes for the Toilet." Graham's American Monthly Magazine of Literature, Art, and Fashion (1844-1858); Oct 1856, VOL.XLIX., No. 4., APS Online, pg 364.
Rose Water.Put roses into water, and add one or two drops only of vitriolic acid. The water assumes the color, and becomes impregnated with the flowers.-- "Recipes for the Toilet." Graham's American Monthly Magazine of Literature, Art, and Fashion (1844-1858); Oct 1856, VOL.XLIX., No. 4., APS Online, pg 364.
Measurements
Drachm 2. A weight approximately equivalent to that of the Greek coin. Hence, in Apothecaries' weight = 60 grains, or of an ounce, in Avoirdupois weight = 27 grains or of an ounce. (Spelt drachm or dram.) Also, the Arabic DIRHEM. fluid drachm = of fluid ounce, = 60 minims or drops. "drachm, n. 2" The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989. OED Online. Oxford University Press. 29 Aug 2007, .
minim: b. The smallest unit of liquid capacity in apothecaries' measure, equal to a sixtieth of a fluid drachm (approx. 0.47 ml). The measure is roughly equivalent to one drop of liquid. "minim, n.1"The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989. OED Online . Oxford University Press. 29 Aug 2007, .
Scruple 1. A unit of weight = 20 grains, drachm, oz. Apothecaries' weight. "scruple, n.1"The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989. OED Online. Oxford University Press. 29 Aug 2007, .
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